Sunday, September 19, 2010

Hotel and Safari Reviews...

The Fairview Hotel in Nairobi is an affordable, clean, perfect and safe hotel for starting or finishing your safari. The hotel grounds are beautifully manicured. Actually, they are exceptional! We were amazed at the amount of time that must have been devoted to not only developing the grounds and water features, but maintining them. When I am in African cities or any large city that I'm not familiar with, I love staying at hotels that have secure fenced grounds. It makes me feel safe and at home and Fairview is just that. We only stayed there one night, so I'm sure we didn't get a good perspective on all that it has to offer, but from what we saw, we enjoyed. The dinner menu is good and reasonably priced and we had a good comfortable sleep. A "continental breakfast" is included in your stay. In North America that usually means you can make your own toast and have a bowl of cereal with a glass of orange juice. At the Fairview hotel, their idea of a continental breakfast is bacon, sausages, scrambled eggs, hashbrowns, eggs benedict, a variety of cereals and a chef ready to create your perfect omlette. This along with a variety of juices, tea or coffee. It was the perfect place to start our safari.
Fairview hotel water feature at night

Giraffe Manor was a fantastic way to start our safari. They picked us up from the Fairview Hotel, then gave us the overview on how to feed the giraffes and the background of the manor. Included in our stay were three meals a day plus drinks and an afternoon snack. Included also were excursions anywhere in the Langata region.

Lynne at Giraffe Manor
They took us to the David Sheldrick Elephant Sanctuary, Kazuri Bead factory and of course the Giraffe Centre which is about 100 meters from the Manor. All were very interesting visits. At the Manor, guests had dinner together in their formal dining room. The dining room doesn't have any lights, so dinner served by candlelight was a nice touch. The highlight of the thee days that we stayed there were definitely the giraffes. The Giraffe Manor is located on 140 acres and is home to nine giraffes. Each giraffe has his or her own personality and by the end of our visit we could tell them apart. I'm not saying I was right 100% of the time, but most of the time I could figure them out. Jock Jr. is the mature male. He is a little bit lighter in colour than most of the others and of course he is a male. Lynne is very personable and usually the first to come for treats. Patrick and Helen are the two babies. I think they are about a year and a half old or so. Patrick is a little darker and a little smaller than Helen is. Kelly is Patrick's mother (Jock Jr. is his father) Kelly is the same colouration as Jock Jr except of course she is a lady. We didn't see much of  Laura and to be honest, I think I would confuse her with Lynne if they were together. Daisey II has a large discolouration or scar of some sort on her side and we didn't see much of her either. Okay, actually I don't remember how Arlene is different either. We met Lynne and Arlene the first morning that we were there...And I am missing giraffe number 9. Help me out if anyone knows who I am missing or how you can tell Lynne from Arlene and Laura.

This all sounds quite corny I know, but the giraffes are so friendly and personable that you can't help but be taken by them. Some are more skittish or shy than others. Some are more gentle than others, then there is Kelly who you have to be careful of as she has a little bit of a grumpy streak in her. It was an amazing experience. The rothschild giraffes are beautiful. Even Gaye who could care less about the giraffes when she first got there had to admit that visiting Giraffe Manor and feeding the giraffes was one of the highlights of our whole trip to Africa and we went to two countries, three national parks, two safari companies and stayed at numerous hotels. We saw hundreds of thousands of animals during the great migration, watched lions, cheetahs and elephants playing. We saw all kinds of interesting things and yet, one of her top three highlights was feeding the rothschilds giraffes at giraffe manor.

Thomson Safaris is a very reputable safari company based out of the states. They put together itineraries for safaris only in Tanzania and all of their safari guides are born and raised in Tanzania. We had them custom design a safari for us. We spent two days in Tarangire National Park and two days at the Ngornongoro Crater. While we were there we stayed in somewhat luxurious, environmentally friendly tentts. The food was great, the staff were very good, the widlife was extremely abundant. Our guide was as friendly as he had to be, he was courteous, professional and knowledgable, but perhaps the worst guide that we have had in the past ten years. We were supposed to be on a custom safari. We were supposed to be focusing on the big cats and babies. On our third safari day we finally saw lion cubs. He stopped for five minutes, then moved on. We traveled 20,000 kilometeres to photograph cats and babies and when we finally see them we only get five minutes?! I was choked. I had discussed with my agent at Thomson about the chance of stopping off at Lake Manyara on the way to Ngorongoro Crater. It wasn't on the official itinerary, so he completely dismissed it. It was only Gaye and I on the safari and it was supposed to be a custom safari. There was nothing custom about this safari in Tanzania. For that reason, I doubt that I will ever use Thomson Safaris again. Thomson is a very reputable company. Six months before our safari we got a check list in the mail to help us organize ourselves to get ready in regards to visas, packing, shopping for supplies, etc. That was awesome! I have never experienced any other company with that level of dedication to making their clients feel at ease before a safari . Three weeks before we left, we received hats and a safari guide in the mail that was quite helpful and we thought was very impressive from a customer service perspective. The places we stayed at were great, the food was great, the follow up after safari was also impressive as there was a catalogue in the mail with a discount voucher for a future trip with Thomson safaris. They did all of these wonderful things and yet they assigned us a terribly impersonable guide who would point out interesting sights, but had no interest in any kind of conversation and would only answer a direct question, but would not offer any conversation. We tried to converse with him for four days, but only got short answers each time. After day two we were ready for our trip to be over and just couldn't wait to be rid of this guide who we felt hated us from the get go. The other Thomson safari guides would have dinner with their guests and discuss the events of the day. The guests would ask their guide about the interesting things that he may have seen in his guiding career. The guide meanwhile would enquire about the safari experiences that his guests have had in the past in other parts of the world. These dinner conversations with people in different parts of the world and different nature experiences is like the icing on the cake after a great day on safari.

Maasai Village
We on the other hand were always at a table alone listening to other guides and their clients. It is too bad that Thomson dropped the ball here because they did everything else right. Unfortunately sometimes the devil is in the details and even if you proactively do great things for your customer, sometimes you can fall short on one small area that ruins everything.The highlight of our safari trip was the one time our guide was flexible. He took us to a Maasai Village. We really enjoyed it.


Rivertrees Country Inn Thomson Safari booked this quaint little cottage for us. Arusha is a really busy intimidating African city. Rivertrees is a beatifully manicured, safe, quiet oasis in amoungst the craziness. The food is great, the grounds are beautiful. Even their well behaved resident dog; Santanna was welcoming. I would recommend starting or finishing any safari with Rivertrees Country Inn. My only regret is that we just had one night there.

Little Governors' Camp is located in the masai mara overlooking a marsh. It is a quaint luxury camp with 17 tents and impeccable customer service. The food is great, the wildlife viewing is spectacular and staff to a person will all bend over backwards to help you feel more comfortable.


Elephants outside our tent

Due to tripadvisor comments, we requested Solomon to be our guide and we were glad that we did. We had more fun in the short 15 minute game drive from the airstrip to the camp, than we had in four days with our guide from Thomson Safaris. A safari guide can make or break your safari. We were delighted to have Solomon guide us. He was fantastic! Solomon made our experience really unique. On the first day, he taught us a couple of commonly used swahili words used on safari. On each day after that, he taught us a couple more. It might sound corny, but by the end of our safari, we were having fun with ten swahili words. Solomon didn't only find wildlife, he explained the behaviours of animals and why they were doing certain things and what he anticipated that they would do next. His enthusiastic, positive attitude really set the atmosphere for the trip. It is more fun when you are on safari when you get the impression that the safari guide is having fun too. In reading other comments on trip advisor, it sounds like other guides at the Governors' camps are equally as enthusiastic and fun to be around. That's okay though, when we go back to Little Governors' in 2012, we are still going to request that Solomon be our guide.

Panari Hotel was nice enough to allow us to keep our souvenirs for five days while we were on safari. We booked a day room with them for a mere $210 US. They are located between the Wilson airport and Nairobi international airport. We were supposed to get in at about 4:30pm and our flight to Istanbul was at 2:30a.m. so we needed a room for a few hours that was close to the airport.

Unfortunately for us, the shower head was broken. We had better shower facilities in the middle of the bush in Tanzania. It is a good thing that we were really tired and weren't staying overnight because I don't think the floor was as hard as the bed was. That was the most uncomfortable bed in a hotel that I have ever stayed in. We checked in at around 8p.m. because of our delayed flight, but a short rest a meal and a shower was still appreciated even if it was completely overpriced. Insult to injury, Panari was the first hotel that I have ever spent $210 at that didn't include free internet service. If you need a hotel to stay at that is close to the airport, try a different hotel. This one is terrible!

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Day 14: Little Governors' Camp

September 15th...
Our last morning at Little Governors’ Camp. Our game plan this morning was just to take some pictures of the sunrise and then hang out with the marsh pride as they are so close to camp and easy to find. By the time we got there, they were awake, the light was perfect and they played for us for most of our game drive. It was really relaxing watching them. As a bonus, Jonathon Scott and his film crew from BBC were there to film the marsh pride as well. I heard about Governors’ Camp by watching Big Cat Diary and followed the lives of the marsh pride and the three cheetah brothers on the show, so it was neat watching them in action as they filmed their new documentary 'Truth about Lions'.

Marsh pride cubs playing
This afternoon we head back for home at 3:30. We will booked a day room at a hotel near the airport, then we leave at 2:30a.m. tomorrow. It will be a long journey, but we only have a couple short lay overs, so all in all it shouldn't be too bad. We should be home tomorow night in our own bed by about 9:30. It has really been a wonderful experience in Africa, but now as much as I hate to leave Little Governors', I am really looking forward to getting back to work.


Better late than never...
...A few hours later... This afternoon we had quite the issues trying to leave the airstrip. The first three planes came in and none of them had our names on their boarding sheets so we had to wait an hour or so, then the rain clouds came in. It hadn't rained during the day for two weeks and these clouds were black so I started putting up the roof and sides of the safari landrover when a pilot decided to position a plane in front of us to ready for take off. I had my back to the plane and none of the others took off from the dirt, they all took off from the paved runway. When he gunned the engines, I got a dustbath like I was being sandblasted. It blew my hat off and almost knocked me over. Insult to injury, a few minutes later the rains came in so hard that our plane had to be delayed for another hour as the weather was just too horrible for landing and take off.

Waiting for our flight out to Nairobi as a storm was approaching. The storm
arrived first and it delayed our plane for an hour. It rained so hard
we were expecting to see animals being ushered onto an arc two by two

The rest of the traveling went really well. We left Nairobi International Airport at about 2:50a.m., flew into Istanbul via Turkish Airlines, then flew from Istanbul to Toronto via Turkish Airlines again. The second flight was an amazing plane. Probably the best I have ever been on! I will have to try to fly with them again the next time I cross the ocean because our ten hour and forty minute flight was really comfortable. The food and the staff were great. From there we had an hour layover in Toronto and we got home by around 10p.m. Our travel time door to door was about 30 hours on the way to Africa and 31 hours on the way back with very minimal layovers. All in all traveling both ways this time was great.

I almost forgot to mention that on my last morning on safari I took 1630 pictures. That puts me at 20,130 pictures taken on safari. Now begins the long journey of sifting through the good and the bad. Hopefully the odds will be in my favor and my images will sell well, but time will tell.


That is it for Kenya and Tanzania for this year. People often are worried about us when we go to Africa. To be honest, I am more concerned for my safety while I am in Europe. We don't tend spend any time in the cities in Africa unless we are with a guide and we feel completely safe. The only thing I would warn you of is the Africa "Bug". Once you go once, you will find yourself bitten by the bug like Sandra and her husband have. They have gone to Africa many times and they keep on going back. Check out pictures from her wildlife safari experiences on her blog. From looking at her blog, you can tell that she is passionate about animals and wildlife conservation. It is quite evident that she of course loves the Masai Mara.


Check out our main wildlife photography website and our main wildlife photography blog.
View pictures of the lions from Little Governors' Camp.

Day 13: Little Governors' Camp

September 14...


baby jackals playing

This morning we went out to see if we could find the cheetahs when we happened across a mother jackal and five babies. They were really fun to watch as they played and ran around. Unfortunately, they were between us and the rising sun, so I likely won’t be able to salvage many of those pictures, but a few should turn out well. From there we did find the cheetahs, but they were on a rocky ridge that wasn’t land rover friendly, so we left them alone. It was a quiet morning as we drove around the Mara. As with all of the game drives we noticed the landscape dotted with wildebeest for as far as we could see. Gaye noticed a thomsons’ gazelle had just given birth so we watched her clean her baby up and headed back to camp for lunch.

Lioness take down

In the  afternoon our game plan was to check out the river crossing, then visit the marsh pride. There was nothing going on at the crossing as the wildebeest were just mooing and walking around in circles.By the time we got back the light was good so we photographed the marsh pride playing for an hour or so. Unfortunately, we were on the wrong side of the light again, so I doubt that many of them will turn out very well, but it was really fun to watch them all the same.

2892 images today. 1500 images to go...



Check out our main wildlife photography website and our main wildlife photography blog.
View pictures of the lions from Little Governors' Camp.


Check out our main wildlife photography website and our main wildlife photography blog.
View pictures of the lions from Little Governors' Camp.


Day 12: Little Governors' Camp

September 13...
This morning after taking a couple of sunrise shots, we bolted to the leopard area and sure enough there were about six or eight land rovers there already. There was a leopard walking through the brush. He was small, but a beautiful cat. We all tried getting good positioning to take pictures of him, but I doubt that anyone did get any good shots. There was just too much brush. Solomon managed to position the vehicle well for us a couple of times, but despite checking my light and speed before we got there, I still didn’t fair well. I blew it and just couldn’t get my act together quickly enough for good shots.

After watching the leopard we went down to a creek crossing where we stumbled upon literally thousands of wildebeest and zebra. They spotted the horizon and all seemed to be coming down to get a drink which made for some great photography opportunities. We took hundreds of pictures, then stopped for breakfast.

After breakfast we went in search of cheetahs. A good guide looks for the outline of a cat in the distance. Solomon stopped and got out his binoculars and scanned the horizon. “Yes, there are cats over there” he said. I asked how he knew and he replied “six landrovers. Any more than two land rovers is the sighting of a cat.”
Two of the three cheetah brothers
I had to laugh. He is a pretty funny guy. Sure enough, by the time that we got over to the sighting the three cheetah brothers were relaxing under an acacia tree. What a great sighting. Hopefully we will see them again in better light on the afternoon game drive.

This afternoon we quickly checked out a small, young adult pride of four females and five males. I’m not sure they can really be called a pride as they are related and will be broken up to go their separate ways soon. From there we went to check out the cheetah brothers. By this time, the word had gotten out and 22 land rovers were lined up waiting for them to wake up. We waited for about an hour and a half, a couple hundred meters away, hoping that they would wake up and come towards us to find a meal. Eventually we gave up and just as we got there, the brothers were starting to wake up. The three of them played for about half an hour on and off. That was fantastic photography. I’m not sure that I got anything worthwhile yet, but it was fun all the same. Finally the cheetahs decided that it was time to hunt. They walked by us in the landrover (much to Gaye’s dismay after our last cheetah experience from 2008). From there they stood together scanning the herds of wildebeest. It was already 6:15p.m. and we had to be back at camp by 6:30. The light was almost gone anyway, so off we went. With the vast herds of wildebeest out there, I’m sure they will make a kill tonight and will be fat and happy tomorrow.

1903 images today. 4,392 pictures to go...



Check out our main wildlife photography website and our main wildlife photography blog.
View pictures of the lions from Little Governors' Camp.


Day 11: Little Governors' Camp

September 12th...
In the morning we went out in search of a leopard and cheetah and couldn’t find either, so went down to the river crossing to see if we could get lucky there. At the river there were probably about 20 or 30 bloated wildebeest carcasses littering the river bank, and every now and again you would see one floating downstream. On the bank of the river, there were about 15,000 wildebeest trying to gather the courage to cross. Every now and again a wildebeest would come down to the river, get a drink and maybe even walk in a few feet, then they would see the floating carcasses and change their minds. Once one wildebeest goes, they all go and when one wildebeest would go down to the river, the others would follow suit, but as soon as the leader changed his mind, the rest would go up the bank as well. We sat there for about three hours and saw two small crossings from the other side of about a dozen or so wildebeest, but nothing spectacular, so we went back for lunch.

Elephants filmed from our tent at Little Governors' Camp

After lunch, I came out of my tent to charge the laptop and wasn’t paying attention to what I was doing. I looked up noticed the guard had a pretty concerned look on his face. About 50 feet down the path just past the dinner tent was a huge bull elephant. I looked into the marsh in front of our tent and noticed another dozen or so elephants right in front of our tent. We were asked to go back into our tents and stay there and of course we obliged.

bat eared fox
Our afternoon game drive was a bit slow at first. We were looking for cheetah and leopard and struck out. On the way back though, we saw eland antelope. Elands are the largest of the African antelope and very shy. They don't hav a dainty frame like most antelope. Their frame is more like a large cow or bull, but taller. From there on the way back we stopped because Gaye noticed an aardwolf. They are nocturnal and very shy, so that was a nice sight even if it was pretty far away. When Solomon went to start the land rover up again, he looked down to see two bat eared foxes. Bat eared foxes and aardwolves are both nocturnal, so a sighting of them is pretty rare. On the way back we also noticed a termite mound with black backed jackals living in it and out of the mound emerged tiny little baby jackals. They were really cute but it was too late to stay so we will come back to them again when we get a chance.

664 images today. 6295 pictures to go...



Check out our main wildlife photography website and our main wildlife photography blog.
View pictures of the lions from Little Governors' Camp.

Day 10: Little Governors' Camp

September 11th...
The Masai Mara is 5100 feet above sea level. Each year the migration seems to be getting a little larger. This year the wildebeest count is 2.5 to 3 million wildebeest. From what I had read back home, the count was 1.5 wildebeest, so the population of the migration is really growing.
One of three of the youngest cubs
of the Marsh pride
                                 
There are three main prides of lions around Governor’s camps. They are the marsh pride, the paradise pride and the ridge pride. The marsh pride is only about a 7 minute drive from camp and they are the only pride with cubs, so we spent the entire first game drive photographing them. It's neat because the BBC is filming for their upcoming documentary 'The Truth about Lions'. It was great photographing the marsh pride with them. 


After lunch we went back to see them, but they were sleeping, so we decided to roam around elsewhere. Solomon noticed a thomson’s gazelle giving birth, so we stayed there for about an hour and a half. We watched her give birth, then clean up her baby. Unfortunately for her the baboons were on their way toward her so she had to leave the baby in hopes that she wouldn’t attract any attention. The baby was just behind a termite mound so she was hidden from them. A thomsons’ gazelle would be a nice light snack for a troop of baboons, so it was a bit nerve wracking for all of us for a while,  but instinctively, about 30 minutes later, the baby took its first wobbly steps and struggled to make it over to taller grass where it would be safe. From there we went back to check on the lions. There was overcast and it had gotten a little bit cooler, so the cubs awoke from their sleep and started to play. At the end of the day, my picture count was 3930.

6959 pictures to go...

Marsh pride lion cubs playing

Check out our main wildlife photography website and our main wildlife photography blog.
View pictures of the lions from Little Governors' Camp.

Day Nine: Travel to Nairobi, then on to Little Governors' Camp


September 10th...
We are over our allowable weight limit for baggage due to our photography equipment, so the airline attendant in charge of checking the weight of the bags sternly tells us that we are over our limit. “That will be $3 per kilogram over or $60. He then takes us aside so we can fill out our customs paperwork and tells us that we can buy him lunch and lunch is $20. I thought that was kind of funny. We gladly paid him the twenty bucks. Thankfully, the flights from Arusha to Nairobi and Nairobi to Little Governors’ camp are both in larger planes that are pressurized, so my nausea stays to a minimum. What a relief! We get into Little Governors’ camp where our guide Solomon is waiting for us. I specifically asked for him as a guide and right from the get go he was awesome! We had more fun, more conversation and learned more from Solomon in a short fifteen minute game drive into camp than we had learned from our previous Guide from Thomson’s in four days!
Boat ride across the Mara river to Little Governors' camp

I got a kick out of the look on Gaye’s face as we got closer to the camp. You get out of the land rover, then walk down these steps to the Mara river. At the bottom of the stairs is a man in a boat. There is a rope that goes across the river, so he just has to pull us across. As you are going across, you can see the hippos just upstream and downstream from our crossing. The first day she looked a little nervous, but we have to cross the river four times per day, so it gets comfortable quite quickly and just adds to the charm of the camp. Pictures to come soon...



Check out our main wildlife photography website and our main wildlife photography blog.
View pictures of the lions from Little Governors' Camp.